11.3. ADJUSTMENTS

1. Place the doors in the T-bar and shift the central pin in place. Make sure the seam between the doors and rear shell is parallel all the way round by placing some pieces of cardboard. Duck-tape the 3 parts together. Check if the polyester clears the body and file if neccesary.
2. It is very important to check if the roof is fitted well, the seams should be parallel and the doors should seal the windscreen. Have an assistant hold the rear part, move the doors up and down a few times and check again.
3. If the roof does not fit a 100% you have a few options:
* file a bit off the edge of the door that is placed in the door, this way the door is moved more to the inside of the door.
* The locking mechanism can be adjusted using the eccentric at the rear and moving the various bolts through their holes.
* The rear shell can be moved from left to right a little bit.
* The angle of the windscreen can be altered slightly.
All in all it takes quite a bit of fiddling and you should take your time for it!
It always helps to duck-tape the door to the body at the end of the day and leave it overnight. You will be amazed how the polyester will settle when gently pushed in position.
4. Once you are happy with the roof it is time to glue the hinge to the polyester using Sika-Flex. This has the benefit of sealing against rainwater and providing a very strong connection. Mark the position of the hinge and disassemble it. Use little pieces of cardboard 1mm thick placed between the polyester and hinge to act as spacers so the Sika-flex has a 1mm thickness.
5. Apply the Sika-Flex and mount the hinge using the 3 M4 bolts and nuts. Clamp the whole thing together using 2 wooden sticks with holes at the place of the bolts. Let the SikaFlex harden for 24 hours.
6. Reassemble the whole roof, make sure everything is alligned properly, drill the 5 holes in the rear part and mount it using the 5 M5x25 screws.
7. Now its time for the final adjustment of the locking mechanism, at the rear you use the eccentric and at the front you can mount the little plate with the nylon bush on the triangular plate which holds the window. For this you press the door all the way down and mark the position of the locking pin. Open the door and drill the holes, you can either tap M4 thread or use the supplied M4 locknuts.
8. Now it's time to place the gas-struts, these have to be mounted with the thick part up. At the rear the gas strut clicks right on, at the front you have to mount the ball joint on top of the windscreen. Use a clamp to roughly position the joint on the window and mount the gas-strut. Do this on both sides with open doors and adjust until the doors are both at the same height and they have +/- 1cm between them. Mark the holes for the ball joint, drill them with a 3mm drill and use the self-tapping screws. Be careful when drilling, you are very close to the glass!
9. The final job is to fit the rear windscreen. First smoothen the edges on the polyester and on the plexiglass window using fine grit sandpaper (P400), this prevents damage to the rubber. First clamp the rubber on the polyester and then push the window in from outside in. When fitted neatly you can mount the inset, preferably with a special tool.
Mounting the window can be a very fiddly job and may take some time but once its done you're ready for the first warm and dry testdrive!