Clutch cable:
- Put the clutch cable through the bracket with the small metal pipe that is part of the pedal gear bracket set. Attach the metal hex on to the clutch pedal. Adjust the cable with the adjusting nut until the pedal has a free movement of 2 centimetres. When the pedal free movement is correct fasten the nut with the top nut by fasten it together. Make sure that the cable has enough clearance with the exhaust.
Throttle cable:
- Put the throttle cable through the hole in the heather connection bracket which is bolted on to the bulkhead.
- Hook the nipple of the cable on to the modified accelerator pedal. Tip: bend the two ends of the fork together to prevent the cable from flipping out.
- On the other side of the cable is a black plastic piece that you need to put through the bracket on the carburettor.
- Attach the throttle cable on to the carburettor. The U-shaped bracket is attached on to the throttle axle of the carburettor by a pin that needs to secured with a retaining clip. Check if the cable opens and closes the carburettor completely.
- The retaining clip on the black plastic can be used to adjust the cable.
Brake line:
- To prevent damage on the brake lines because of the vibration in the engine bay the brake line in the engine bay needs to be carefully fitted. From the point where the brake line is fitted onto the gearbox and the point where it’s fitted onto the scuttle board the extra bit of brake line needs to be rolled up in the shape of a curl. You can use an old spray paint can to roll the brake line around.
- The brake line has to be fixed on two point onto the scuttle board between the curl and the master brake cylinder.
- Fix the brake line of the front brakes to master brake cylinder in the hole which is closest to the scuttle board (or the driver). Please be aware not to forget the rubber brake line gasket.
- Take the brake line which comes from the rear of the car through the appropriate hole in the chassis (+/- 30mm) Please be aware that the brake line does not touch the sharp edges of the chassis. A piece of fuel hose will do the trick. Fix the brake line on top of the chassis.
- Guide the brake line through the engine bay to the master brake cylinder and fix it in the front hole with a rubber brake line gasket.
- Only when the brake line is to long you can put a small curl in it to prevent it from clashing with anything in the engine bay.
- The lid of the brake fluid reservoir needs to be on the scuttle board side.
- Fill the reservoir up with the correct fluid. DOT4 fluid is used on 2CV’s with drums brakes on the front and rear. LHM fluid is being used on 2CV’s with disc brakes on the front. The next step is to bleed the air out of the brake system.
Bleeding the brakes:The brake fluid has to be pumped through the brake lines. There are three air-bleed nipples on the car. Two on the drum brakes on the rear and one on the left caliper on the front. - Place a transparent hose on the air-bleed nipple on the right rear brake and put the other end of the hose in a transparent jar or bottle.
A: Check first if there is enough brake fluid in the reservoir.
B: Ask somebody to assist you with operating the brake pedal. Push the brake pedal several times until you feel enough resistance. And keep the pressure on the pedal.
C:Undo the air-bleed nipple until the pedal is all the way down to the floor and tighten the nipple again. (when the nipple is tightened the assistant can release the pedal easily)
- Repeat the steps A to C until the fluid in the transparent hose is free of air bubbles.
The next nipple to bleed the air is the left rear brake and the following is the one on the caliper.
You can check if you’ve done the job right if the brake pedal feels hard instead of spongy.
- When you are done check if the level of the fluid in the reservoir is on MAX.
Note: The process of bleeding of the brakes can’t be done with a vacuum pump.
Handbrake:
- Drill 4 holes in the handbrake bracket which you have taken out of the donor car. You can use the picture as an example.
- Put the handbrake through the bracket.
- Take the old metal strip that connects the handbrake to the lever of the handbrake and replace it with the longer stainless strip. Put the strip through the hole in the stainless heater connector which is fitted on the bulkhead (or scuttle board). Connect the strip to the lever which operates the handbrake cables.
- Line up the handbrake with the bracket so that it doesn’t clashes with anything. Please be aware that the throttle pedal can move free of the handbrake.
- Use the bracket as a mould to drill the holes in the body (Ø 6.5 mm).
- Fix the bracket to the body with M6 bolts. Do not forget to use sheet-metal rings! |
Nederlands
English
Deutsch
Français
