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5.14. Bootlid
HOMEABOUT BCCMEDIACONSTRUCTION MANUALOUR BRANDSINSURANCEOCCASIONSWEBSHOPRENTALSLINKSCONTACT IWAN GÖBEL

5. MOUNTING THE BODY

5.1. Transport and storage

5.2. Properties of polyester

5.3. Working with polyester

5.4. Cleaning and polishing

5.5. Mounting the rear mudguards

5.6. Gluing the gaiter for the steering column in place

5.7. Pedals

5.8. The short legs kit

5.9. Heater connection

5.10. Vehicle Identification Plate from the donor car

5.11. Rear lights

5.12. Wiring harness

5.13. Battery tray and horn

5.14. Bootlid

5.15. Bootlid stand

5.16. The Bootlid lock and numberplate light

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5.14. BOOTLID

Drill the holes (8.5 millimetres) into the body that will fit the hinges. Be aware that the left- and right hand hinges are different. On the bottom of each hinge, you will find a four-character identification, which will tell you on what side it is to be used (as seen from the driver’s position)

 ·     RV LA = Right hand side – Front or Left hand side - Rear

·      RA LV = Right hand side – Rear or Left hand side - Front

The older type of hinges is identified by looking at the only visible side of the hinge pin, there it always points to the middle of the car.

The hinges are chamfered and thus able to follow the slope in the bonnet and boot lid. When fitted incorrectly, a lot of stress on the fibreglass may result in damage to the gel coat.
Hinge failure is also possible and this failure caused by an incorrect fitting is not covered by our warranty.

Check the standing edge of the boot gutter. It should not exceed the thickness of 4 millimetres causing the rubber seal not to fit properly. If you encounter an area that is thicker than 4 millimetres, you may sand it down at the rough side of the fibreglass. You should leave the gel coat side alone. The height of the standing edge is also important and should not exceed 20 millimetres (see drawing). If the edge is too high it will result in a bulging boot lid.

Now that the edge is taken care of, the rubber seal should be put in place. Start at the highest side so the joint will be in the middle. Use super glue if you want to join both ends of the seal.

Make sure that the boot lid does not touch the body. If it does, first see if readjusting the hinges can solve the problem. If not, you will have to remove the excess material from the bottom of the lid by either sanding or grinding it down. Be careful if such need arises. Take your time and carefully grind or sand a little at a time, you will not be happy when you find out you took too much off. Be aware that a new boot lid will set you back some 250 euros.

If the length of the threads permits it, use mudguard washers under the nuts with which you fit the hinges because it will even out the pressure on the fibreglass. Never turn the hinge once it is fitted to the body (but not yet to the lid) because it will cause nasty and hard to remove scratches on the gel coat. .

The underside of the lid probably needs some sanding or grinding as well. This may be done only when the lid is fitted with the hinges in their proper position to the body. Now you are able to easily check for the exact fit after each time you have sanded the fibreglass. As for the finishing touch, it may be a good idea to fit the chromed Burton logo on your boot lid. Before drilling the required holes, make sure you do not end up behind one of the reinforcement rims of the lid. Applying a drop of SikaFlex 260 to the holes will any leakage in the future.

RELATED PARTS

>>Bootlid set

>>Bracket voor bootlidlock

>>Bootlid lock + keys

>>Rubber for bootlid.

>>Hinges for bonnet or bootlid

>>Boot lid stand (INOX)

>>Bootrack Burton stainless steel

>>Logo Burton for bootlid

Gutter for rainwater
Gutter for rainwater

Modification boot lid hinge
Modification boot lid hinge

 
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