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14.4. (De)mounting rear brakes
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14. BRAKES

14.1. Brake troubles

14.2. Bleeding the brake system

14.3. (De)mounting brake callipers

14.4. (De)mounting rear brakes

14.5. Changing brake pads

14.6. Front calliper overhaul

14.7. Master brake cilinder

14.8. Handbrake adjustment

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14.4. (DE)MOUNTING REAR BRAKES

- Set the car on blocks and remove the wheel
- Remove the dust cap of the brake drum
- Tap with a chisel or a nail punch securing the hub nut outwards and remove the nut (size 44). You can renew or replace this nut with one on the other side.
- Set the brake pads back with the adjustable cams. (No. 2)
- Remove the brake drum with a hand puller or two large screwdrivers.
- Remove the spring (No. 7) and the brake lining (No. 6) turning a quarter the bonnet (No. 14) and pressing it. Remove the 2 nuts M7.
- Replace any wheel cylinder loosening the brake hose and two M6 bolts.
- Mount the new brake cylinder in reverse order. Be alert of the type of braking system (LHM or DOT 4) and always use a new rubber pipe hose.
- Secure the screws through the locking plate (8) tapping into it, or use self-locking nuts M7.
- If you mount a new brake lining slant it just a bit at the beginning and the end of the lining, this prevents squeaking and abrupt moving of the brakes.
- Mount the new brake lining and adjust it with the eccentrics (No. 3) and cams (No. 2). The margin between the brake drum and the brake lining must be of 0.2 mm over the entire length.
- Measure the interior length of the drum and make sure that everywhere it is within 0.2 mm. Adjust first the 2 lower eccentrics and then the cams at the top.
- If the adjustment is good, you can set the upper cams again a bit inside so that the drum fits over it.
- Tap the brake drum in its place with a plastic hammer and put the hub nut in firmly.
- Secure the nut with a chisel with some material of the nut into the groove tapping on the shaft.
- Mount the dust cap in the drum to the wheel.
- Now put the cams back outwards so that the lining is free from the drum.

If when driving / breaking the brakes make a squeaking noise or you feel the brake pedal going up and down it may be that the oval drum is worn out. Replacing or turning out the lathe is a solution.

RELATED PARTS

>>Grease cap rear for 2CV/DS, made of plastic. Cover wheel bearing in the back of the brake drum

>>Rear axle nut, 44ties, for 2CV,

>>Rear brake cilinder LHM original

>>Brake shoes rear for 2CV - complete for both sides. Original equipment manufacturer. Suitable for all 2CV-models.

>>Brake pipe rubber 3,5 mm LHM

>>Brake pipe rubber 3,5 mm DOT 4

>>Wheel brake cylinder rear, for 2CV from 11/1970 to 08/1981. Plug 8mm, for DOT brake systems and vehicles with front disc brake.

>>Brakedrum socket 44

>>Rear brakedrum puller

>>Wheel brake cylinder for 2CV rear upto 1963, connection M10x100, piston diameter 19mm

Back off brake adjuster cam
Back off brake adjuster cam

Pulling the brake drum
Pulling the brake drum

Rear brake
Rear brake

Rear brake drum
Rear brake drum

 
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