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13.4. (Dis)mantling rear suspension arm
HOMEABOUT BCCMEDIACONSTRUCTION MANUALOUR BRANDSINSURANCEOCCASIONSWEBSHOPRENTALSLINKSCONTACT IWAN GÖBEL

13. CHECKING AND OVERHAULING

13.1. Petrol tank and bracket

13.2. Front and rear suspension

13.3. (Dis)mantling front suspension arm

13.4. (Dis)mantling rear suspension arm

13.5. Steering arms

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13.4. (DIS)MANTLING REAR SUSPENSION ARM

Remove the absorber
Remove the locking clip and tap the cantilever from the towing eye.
Loosen the clamp and remove the dust cap from the support arm.
Remove the brake line to the support arm of the three-way piece and eventually fill it with a M8 bolt.
Remove the nut from the retaining bolt left – right from the three-way piece segment and press the bolt inside.
Remove the cotter pin from the support arm and bearing nut. Unscrew the tap the nut with a blunt screwdriver without damaging the threads’ screw.
Remove the arm wiggling, pulling, moving or knocking.
Check the bearings. Red grease means there is rust in the bearing and it´s not good. Feel with your finger along the lower scale. Bumps are not good.
Tap the bearing shells from the support arm if you want to install new bearings. If you find a broken bearing you must also remove and discard the shell.
You can eventually put the new bearing and the shell in the same way as the ones that were there before. Remember to replace the inner support.
Move the support arm over the shaft and tap the outer bearing in the support arm.
Slide the outer support arm seal on the support arm and tighten the nut on the axle tube.
Tighten the nut to 50Nm and put the cotter pin on.
When connecting the brake lines follow these instructions:
Paste the nipple down with tape so that it cannot move
Slide the spiral axle tube and guide it so that it finally is connected with the nipple in the tree-way piece. Use a new line and put the rubber nipple down to 7-9 Nm
Secure the mounting bolt of the brake line fixed with 10Nm. Note whether the ridge is into the notch of the shaft tube and check if the brake line doesn´t come in contact with the axel tube.
Insert the rubber ring to the brake line to protect the shaft in the three-way piece.
Bring the plastic dust cover and secure it with a strip.
 
Replacing the rear bearing

Remove the dust cap of the brake drum
Remove the locking of the wheel hub with a chisel (see figure 3A.6 no. 2) and remove the nut (M44). You can replace or renew this nut with the one on the other side.
Remove the brake drum with a trigger or by prying with two big screwdrivers.
Drill with a 4mm drill the centre points of the wheel bearing nut about 3 mm.
Hold the brake drum and tap the wheel bearing nut with a blunt screwdriver () without damaging the screw´s thread. Unscrew the net form the brake drum.
Place the drum with the ends turning down on a wooden plank and tap the bearing from the drum.
Pull the wheel bearing seal from the drum, clean the drum  and check the screw´s thread with a wire....veil the wire where it´s necessary.
Lubricate the new bearings with grease and using a piece of pipe press it against the outer bearing shell in the drum.
Fasten the wheel bearing nut and secure it with two or three centred points.
Tap the brake drum in its place with a plastic hammer and put the hub nut securely.
Lock the nut with a chisel and some material of the nut by tapping in the groove.
Put the plastic dust cap on the drum.

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Back off brake adjuster cam
Back off brake adjuster cam

 
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