|
Removing and assembling a front suspension arm may be necessary if one of the bearings is in bad condition, if a stub axle needs replacing or if the support arm is damaged due to an accident.
Remove the drive shaft from the stub axle housing, see 3D…)
Dismount the lid of the axle tube and three M9 bolts and preserve them well.
Remove the locking clips and tap the knife edge out the eye.
Loosen the steering ball joint arm on the stub axle housing. It is attached to the locking plate with two bolts. If these are removed, the arm can be easily be loosened with a hammer. Keep these bolts separated since they are stronger (10.9) than normal bolts (8.8).
Remove the linchpin from the support arm-bearing bolt and tap the bolt loose with a blunt screwdriver without damaging the threads.
Remove the arm by wiggling, pulling, moving or tapping.
Check the bearings. Red grease means rust in the bearing, which is not good. Run your finger along the bearing bush. Irregularities are not good either.
Tap out the bearing arm if you want to assemble new bearings. If the bearing bush is also damaged, you also need to dismount and throw away the bearing.
If necessary, apply the new bearing bush and the bearing in the same way as they used to be applied. Do not forget to change the inner support arm seal.
Shift the support arm over the axle and tap the outer bearing into the support arm.
Shift the outer support arm seal on the support arm bolt and turn it on the stub axle.
Fasten the bolt with 50Nm and apply the linchpin.
Mount the lid of the stub axle (including the shock absorber).
Connect the eye on the support arm and assemble the knife edge and locking spring.
Apply the drive shaft to the hub. (see 3D…)
Fasten the hub bolt with 350Nm and apply the linchpin.
Apply the steering ball joint arm to the stub axle and lock it.
Removing and installing stub axle pin
The stub axles ensure that the front wheels easily rotate to the left or right. When you think your car is bucketing along the street and the steering feels a bit lurching, then there is a great chance the sub axles are worn. Lubricating the stub axles every 5000 Km, with the front of the vehicle cranked upward, considerably increases the life of the stub axles.
Check the backlash of the stub axle pins. The permitted backlash for the periodic motor vehicle test is:
*1.5 mm sideward in upper or lower pivot, or; * 2.0 mm in upper or lower pivot together.
* 1.0 mm upward.
Please proceed as follows for removing and installing the stub axle pin:
Possibly demount the front control arm in order to make it all easier, see 3D.3
Straighten the folded over collar of the lower plug (see figure ...) and screw this plug out of the stub axle using a screwdriver.
Tap the upper stub axle cover (see figure 3A.4 no. 11) out of the stub axle from below using a metal pin of no longer than 7 mm.
Knock the stub axle pin out of the stub axle using a hammer and an old thinner stub axle pin as tools. Do not damage the stub axle housing here.
It is possible the stub axle won’t come out. Then you should use a press with special tools. This makes it necessary to remove the control arm (see 3D.3). It regularly happens that the stub axle pin is so tight that it starts to upset when it is hit too much and too hard. Specialized companies like BCC charge between 25-50 Euros per side.
Remove the friction ring and the thrust washers (see figure 3A.4 no. 6, 7 and 8)
Remove the bushings from the stub axle using an appropriate stamp.
Make sure that you remove all burrs on the stub axle housing and the control arm using a file.
Place the bushings in the stub axle.
Place a friction ring, a thrust washer and another friction ring in the metal dust cap and place the whole including the stub axle over the wheel control arm. The dust cap including rings must be placed below the control arm, with the open side of the dust cap facing down.
Lubricate the bushings and the stub axle pin. Make sure you install the stub axle pin in the right position: At the top both lubrication holes are aligned: At the bottom the lubrication holes have a different distance to the bottom.
Perpendicularly knock the stub axle pin a bit into the stub axle using a copper stamp or plastic hammer and then press it into the control arm. Make sure you force through the stub axle pin enough that the upper edge of the stub axle pin is aligned with the upper edge of the bushing.
Install the stub axle cover and lock it by knocking and by butting the stub axle over the plate.
Install the plug (see figure 3A.4 no. 10) and lock it by tapping the collar into the notch of the stub axle.
Install the ball joint arm on the bearing house (do not forget about the lock washer) and install the drive shaft (see 3D...).
Lubricate the stub axle with universal grease via the grease nipple. (See figure 3A.4 no. 13)
Tip: If you leave the new stub axle pin in the freezer overnight before installation, it will shrink somewhat and as a result is easier to install.
Replacing front wheel bearing
Remove the wheel and the drive shaft, see 3D...)
Support the control arm and knock the wheel hub (see figure 3A.5 no. 1) out of the stub axle housing using an appropriate stamp.
Drill out the centre points for locking the Wheel bearing nut (see figure 3A.5 no. 7) using a 4 mm drill, at a depth of approximately 3 mm. The nut is usually secured at three locations.
Tap loose the Wheel bearing nut using a dull screwdriver (embosser) without damaging the thread.
Remove the retaining rings (see figure 3A.5 no. 4 and 6); tap them out of the ring nut and the sub axle housing.
Tap the bearing (see figure 3A.5 no. 10) including bearing shell out of the stub axle housing.
Clean the stub axle housing and check the thread using a thread file and lubricate the new bearing with bearing grease.
Tap the bearing into the stub axle housing (by means of a pipe with a diameter of 70 mm). Pay attention! Never load the bearing onto the inner ring when installing the stub axle.
First screw the wheel bearing nut manually into the stub axle housing. If this doesn’t work, then file the thread again using a thread file.
Screw (tap) the last part well using the dull screwdriver and secure the ring nut using two or three centre points.
Install the retaining ring inside the ring nut with the lip of the retaining ring facing the bearing. The outside of the retaining ring must be at “equal height” with the outside of the stub axle housing.
Place the retaining ring in the stub axle housing, the retaining ring must be "at equal height" with the outside of the stub axle housing.
Install the Wheel hub by knocking it into the bearing using a plastic hammer.
Install the drive shaft. Only after that you should not notice any backlash anymore.
|
Nederlands
English
Deutsch
Français
